Cash lets them know you won't be messing with trying to get a loan. Also look underneath and see if you see cracked/split boots (covers) on the cv joints or on the steering rack.Also inspect the engine from above for being suspiciously clean, or for suspiciously wet areas that may be blown seals. Thanks for all the help :)The most common reason cars of this age/mileage get traded in is because the previous owners are too fucking cheap to have the first major service interval performed. The car looks nearly new, there’s only 35,000 miles on the odometer, but the sedan is eight years old. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Our combined income is sub 40,000 while she finishes up college and we still managed to get a good interest rate on a 2014 Mazda 3, fully loaded. the thing with leases is you ALWAYS have a car payment and you have to stay under a certain amount of miles. JavaScript is disabled. its time for its first major service.

If they refuse to let you have your own mechanic check the car over... red flag.

I'd recommend at least sniffing around new car lots to see whats possible, as the results might surprise you.I would be more concerned with the overall condition than the miles.Depends on the car and the miles and car. It was three years old at that point. Doesn't matter if you're a guy or gal who's buying, but maybe more important for a gal, just because of the industry as it is... don't go car-shopping alone. Honestly, if money is a concern, a lease is sometimes the better option. I personally wouldn't buy a used car with more than 100,000 miles on it after my own life experiences, regardless of my price range. It might be sacrilegious to put the Silverado 1500 on here considering there's another heavy-duty truck from Ford also… Forums

I won't be doing much long distance driving with the exception of my trip from Buffalo, NY to Connecticut and back.if you are going to spend a decent amount money you should get a car with under 100,000 miles on itDepends on what kind of maintenance you're expecting to do once you have it. If they won't work with you, walk away. That said, I work full time as a waiter, and my wife is a veterinary assistant. That also buys peace of mind. True, but the car payments for those 3-5 years will be a lot more expensive than lease payments. Personally, I'd keep it under 80,000 and no more than 5-6 years old, but I realize that might not be doable for everyone. If a decent amount, < 100k is the way to go. Also I should've mentioned, I'm in the UK, major services here are around £250-300, unless they find something wrong... :)Lol at high mileage being 80k, every vehicle I own is over 160k right now!Should be fine, see if you can get service history and like you said the cam belt (timing belt) is usually done at the 100k mile mark and if the water pump is driven by it that would be the time to change it as well. Yeah, you don't actually "own" the car, unless you decide to purchase it at the end of the lease, but if you buy a car with 80k miles on it, you may be regretting it when it starts to give you trouble. How much would a 2012 honda accord go for right now with 50k miles? I will actually be hitting the 200,000 miles mark in just a couple days. Check car fax. There's advantages to both. Always have someone else with you, so you don't get sucked in to those high-pressure sales tactics, and the "but it's only today" games they play to push you to make a decision too quickly. Look over the car outside for signs of previous damage like paint overspray or panels that line up right. So apologies if not, From the UK, I'm interested in a used Kia that has done 80k miles, I found it at a used car dealership and will pay for it outright in cash. I just sold my brother my old C1500 with 330k miles and my other two Chevys have over 250k, all still running like champs. Not sure if this is the right sub for this question? I look for sub-80k. So apologies if not,From the UK, I'm interested in a used Kia that has done 80k miles, I found it at a used car dealership and will pay for it outright in cash.Is there anything in particular I need to check for a car of this high mileage? That will keep them from trying to add in processing fees and other things after you've already agreed to a price.if you can handle the cost of a timing belt/tensioner/water pump $1200 to $1800. I'm extremely thorough myself - then and only then if I like it will I go take it on a mechanic inspection. smell the oil to see if it smells like fuel.

Cash lets them know you won't be messing with trying to get a loan. Also look underneath and see if you see cracked/split boots (covers) on the cv joints or on the steering rack.Also inspect the engine from above for being suspiciously clean, or for suspiciously wet areas that may be blown seals. Thanks for all the help :)The most common reason cars of this age/mileage get traded in is because the previous owners are too fucking cheap to have the first major service interval performed. The car looks nearly new, there’s only 35,000 miles on the odometer, but the sedan is eight years old. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Our combined income is sub 40,000 while she finishes up college and we still managed to get a good interest rate on a 2014 Mazda 3, fully loaded. the thing with leases is you ALWAYS have a car payment and you have to stay under a certain amount of miles. JavaScript is disabled. its time for its first major service.

If they refuse to let you have your own mechanic check the car over... red flag.

I'd recommend at least sniffing around new car lots to see whats possible, as the results might surprise you.I would be more concerned with the overall condition than the miles.Depends on the car and the miles and car. It was three years old at that point. Doesn't matter if you're a guy or gal who's buying, but maybe more important for a gal, just because of the industry as it is... don't go car-shopping alone. Honestly, if money is a concern, a lease is sometimes the better option. I personally wouldn't buy a used car with more than 100,000 miles on it after my own life experiences, regardless of my price range. It might be sacrilegious to put the Silverado 1500 on here considering there's another heavy-duty truck from Ford also… Forums

I won't be doing much long distance driving with the exception of my trip from Buffalo, NY to Connecticut and back.if you are going to spend a decent amount money you should get a car with under 100,000 miles on itDepends on what kind of maintenance you're expecting to do once you have it. If they won't work with you, walk away. That said, I work full time as a waiter, and my wife is a veterinary assistant. That also buys peace of mind. True, but the car payments for those 3-5 years will be a lot more expensive than lease payments. Personally, I'd keep it under 80,000 and no more than 5-6 years old, but I realize that might not be doable for everyone. If a decent amount, < 100k is the way to go. Also I should've mentioned, I'm in the UK, major services here are around £250-300, unless they find something wrong... :)Lol at high mileage being 80k, every vehicle I own is over 160k right now!Should be fine, see if you can get service history and like you said the cam belt (timing belt) is usually done at the 100k mile mark and if the water pump is driven by it that would be the time to change it as well. Yeah, you don't actually "own" the car, unless you decide to purchase it at the end of the lease, but if you buy a car with 80k miles on it, you may be regretting it when it starts to give you trouble. How much would a 2012 honda accord go for right now with 50k miles? I will actually be hitting the 200,000 miles mark in just a couple days. Check car fax. There's advantages to both. Always have someone else with you, so you don't get sucked in to those high-pressure sales tactics, and the "but it's only today" games they play to push you to make a decision too quickly. Look over the car outside for signs of previous damage like paint overspray or panels that line up right. So apologies if not, From the UK, I'm interested in a used Kia that has done 80k miles, I found it at a used car dealership and will pay for it outright in cash. I just sold my brother my old C1500 with 330k miles and my other two Chevys have over 250k, all still running like champs. Not sure if this is the right sub for this question? I look for sub-80k. So apologies if not,From the UK, I'm interested in a used Kia that has done 80k miles, I found it at a used car dealership and will pay for it outright in cash.Is there anything in particular I need to check for a car of this high mileage? That will keep them from trying to add in processing fees and other things after you've already agreed to a price.if you can handle the cost of a timing belt/tensioner/water pump $1200 to $1800. I'm extremely thorough myself - then and only then if I like it will I go take it on a mechanic inspection. smell the oil to see if it smells like fuel.

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buying a car with 80k miles

New Hyundai's have great warranties and you'll never have to worry about paying for repairs. So if you aren't into putting some more money down the road for maintenance, keep it under 100k. A good way to phrase an offer is "Would you take $x,xxx cash, out-the-door?" This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. It's a trade off. New Hyundai's have great warranties and you'll never have to worry about paying for repairs. Of course, if you do want to purchase a car, a used car that is only 2-3 years old with under 40k miles is a great way to go. The greater the mileage, obviously you're going to be doing a lot more maintenance to keep it in working order, especially past 80k. The site may not work properly if you don't If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit Press J to jump to the feed. After all, a car’s odometer is a measure of how much life it’s lived — so a car with only 70,000 miles is worth a lot more than one that’s covered 170,000 miles. Yeah, you don't actually "own" the car, unless you decide to purchase it at the end of the lease, but if you buy a car with 80k miles on it, you may be regretting it when it starts to give you trouble. It's a good idea to have your own mechanic put the car up on a lift and do an inspection.Also make sure that warranty is still valid. If it an automatic trans, look at the fluid (if it has a dipstick ) should be red, if it's brown you have trans problems, look at the coolant resivoir, a little light brown staining is normal, but if there are chunks of coagulated coolant in there it's a good sign somebody dumped stop leak in there. Is there anything I can say to drop it by a couple of hundred anyway?edit: Bought the car, was a cracking deal and bartered them down a bit!

Cash lets them know you won't be messing with trying to get a loan. Also look underneath and see if you see cracked/split boots (covers) on the cv joints or on the steering rack.Also inspect the engine from above for being suspiciously clean, or for suspiciously wet areas that may be blown seals. Thanks for all the help :)The most common reason cars of this age/mileage get traded in is because the previous owners are too fucking cheap to have the first major service interval performed. The car looks nearly new, there’s only 35,000 miles on the odometer, but the sedan is eight years old. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Our combined income is sub 40,000 while she finishes up college and we still managed to get a good interest rate on a 2014 Mazda 3, fully loaded. the thing with leases is you ALWAYS have a car payment and you have to stay under a certain amount of miles. JavaScript is disabled. its time for its first major service.

If they refuse to let you have your own mechanic check the car over... red flag.

I'd recommend at least sniffing around new car lots to see whats possible, as the results might surprise you.I would be more concerned with the overall condition than the miles.Depends on the car and the miles and car. It was three years old at that point. Doesn't matter if you're a guy or gal who's buying, but maybe more important for a gal, just because of the industry as it is... don't go car-shopping alone. Honestly, if money is a concern, a lease is sometimes the better option. I personally wouldn't buy a used car with more than 100,000 miles on it after my own life experiences, regardless of my price range. It might be sacrilegious to put the Silverado 1500 on here considering there's another heavy-duty truck from Ford also… Forums

I won't be doing much long distance driving with the exception of my trip from Buffalo, NY to Connecticut and back.if you are going to spend a decent amount money you should get a car with under 100,000 miles on itDepends on what kind of maintenance you're expecting to do once you have it. If they won't work with you, walk away. That said, I work full time as a waiter, and my wife is a veterinary assistant. That also buys peace of mind. True, but the car payments for those 3-5 years will be a lot more expensive than lease payments. Personally, I'd keep it under 80,000 and no more than 5-6 years old, but I realize that might not be doable for everyone. If a decent amount, < 100k is the way to go. Also I should've mentioned, I'm in the UK, major services here are around £250-300, unless they find something wrong... :)Lol at high mileage being 80k, every vehicle I own is over 160k right now!Should be fine, see if you can get service history and like you said the cam belt (timing belt) is usually done at the 100k mile mark and if the water pump is driven by it that would be the time to change it as well. Yeah, you don't actually "own" the car, unless you decide to purchase it at the end of the lease, but if you buy a car with 80k miles on it, you may be regretting it when it starts to give you trouble. How much would a 2012 honda accord go for right now with 50k miles? I will actually be hitting the 200,000 miles mark in just a couple days. Check car fax. There's advantages to both. Always have someone else with you, so you don't get sucked in to those high-pressure sales tactics, and the "but it's only today" games they play to push you to make a decision too quickly. Look over the car outside for signs of previous damage like paint overspray or panels that line up right. So apologies if not, From the UK, I'm interested in a used Kia that has done 80k miles, I found it at a used car dealership and will pay for it outright in cash. I just sold my brother my old C1500 with 330k miles and my other two Chevys have over 250k, all still running like champs. Not sure if this is the right sub for this question? I look for sub-80k. So apologies if not,From the UK, I'm interested in a used Kia that has done 80k miles, I found it at a used car dealership and will pay for it outright in cash.Is there anything in particular I need to check for a car of this high mileage? That will keep them from trying to add in processing fees and other things after you've already agreed to a price.if you can handle the cost of a timing belt/tensioner/water pump $1200 to $1800. I'm extremely thorough myself - then and only then if I like it will I go take it on a mechanic inspection. smell the oil to see if it smells like fuel.

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