how to reinforce a trailer tongue

I think you'd do more damage by attempting to straighten it. The trailer tongue should be long enough to allow a reasonable turning radius, and clearance to the vehicle when backing. Good luck with the project.I’ve got a great video here (I should post it) that shows the stupidity of the triple torsion. Based on what you say, sounds like you are correct in making changes. What about other projects from your site that may pique my interest?Do you need to weigh something really heavy but don’t have access to an industrial scale? While the thread creating functions are pretty easy to visualize, sometimes getting the tread to start straight and run true is a different matter.I’m looking to build one of your trailers, but I need to know which welder to buy? How can I weigh heavy things — like my trailer frame — without a specialty scale? Three such Torque Tubes are along the 30′ Length.One of the best online descriptions about modifying a fold-up trailer — while maintaining the folding function — is on Mechanical Elements - Your Source For Do-It-Yourself Project Plans!
Bolting is nice for taking it apart, and it is easier to assemble. You don’t have to reinforce every one, but definitely the ones that carry extra pressures or stresses. Before diving into the two approaches, let’s talk about components. The trailer load limit is the capability of its weakest portion. This can only be achieved if all of the combined weight doesn’t exceed the manufactures recommended combined axle capacity. They carry vertical loads, and they carry a torque load when the forces are uneven. I've got a 24' enclosed that the previous owner jackknifed and it bent and dented the tongue.
That’s a trailer that needs stiffening.Reinforcing the trailer frame corners is the First Step to a more rigid trailer. You don’t have to reinforce every one, but definitely the ones that carry extra pressures or stresses.If you like building stuff, gussets and angle braces are big-time friends. I had to reinforce 2 parts. How can I strengthen a trailer frame? The decision to do that is a matter of how much you want stiffness and strength. Bracing of the tongue adds vertical stiffness to the tongue section and should be used on trailers where the tongue length exceeds 1.5m or where the tongue section has been built using undersize material, particularly on square section steel (SHS) or similar tongues. They’re great on trailer frames and just as necessary in avoiding Usually they are cut with 45° ends and welded in, but make the angle fit the need.It’s easy to make a bracket like this as a bolt-on by adding bolt tabs on each end, but bolting does negate some of the twist stiffening.If you have a choice and want a lot of bang for the buck to strengthen a trailer frame, weld in some like this.The beams of the frame also help with stiffness. Oh well. The type of coupler you choose for your trailer can affect the overall strength of the trailer tongue and chassis. This image shows a gusset installation on a beveled corner. After fixing the broken or loose things, then we examine other areas to reinforce and strengthen. If you’re light and flat, they do OK, but don’t ever approach the loading limits.I have a 20 ft rv trailer. This gusset is mounted on the frame bottom (it’s shown upside down) because it will also serve to support the recessed deck.The next place to look is the intersection of beams such as cross members. Point loading like a tractor wheels is a much different use case than evenly distributed loading. extending the frame about 7 feet.You possibly could extend the front of the trailer for a SXS BUT my only concern would be total tongue weight in comparison to what the nanugacture Intended. All frames will flex a little, and that’s OK, but it should not be a lot.Note that round tube crossmembers are not as easy to connect to — like to bolt the bed material down. Yet, often the only reason for bolting is for shipping prior to assembly. I am frequently disappointed with factory cheap trailers. The angular, vertical and horizontal components resist tension and compression (up and down motion) in the tongue as it goes about its normal duties.Bracing is commonly retro fitted to older trailers where the original construction of the tongue was more of an afterthought than a planned exercise. If getting it to you is the only reason for the bolts, then weld it.Yes, welding means removing paint, then re-painting after. Do or skip the steps as make sense for the function you want:A Tap and Die set is a near must for a DIY fab shop. You may consider moving the axkes forward a touch to make up for the extra tongue weight or possible even moving your fresh water tank to the rear of the trailer and keep some In it to help offset the added tongue weight. Not just the main beams, but the cross members too. I have a great trailer, but it feels a bit flexy, maybe even rickety . . Weld these flats only on the outside edges of the hollow section and not across the bottom (horizontal) face of the tongue.

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